Category Archives: travel

Skopje and environs

I took a really pleasant day trip today to Matka Canyon. It was at the end of a city bus line (#60) and cost $1 each way to get there. Then it was a short walk past a power damIMG_20160329_114259
Just after the dam, you can get on a boatIMG_20160329_124724
This putts up the river through the canyonIMG_20160329_130503
Where you visit a caveIMG_20160329_125659
Apparently the cave is popular with divers. When I got back, Charles and I went for supper in the old quarter and wandered round a bit.IMG_20160329_181235
On the way home we passed along the new/old waterfront buildings. One was still under constructionIMG_20160329_185840
It is this really bizarre development project with huge buildings meant to look like old ones. A German we were talking to likened it to Disneyland.

Setting a gruelling pace

Even with the hiccups at the beginning of the trip, we are more than making progress. This morning we woke up in Pristina, Kosovo, yesterday morning it was Belgrade, Serbia and now we are in Skopje, Macedonia. Granted, they all used to be in Yugoslavia. I think I have convinced Charles to spend at least three nights in Macedonia before heading to Greece. This morning we took a walk before leaving Pristina.IMG_20160328_090420This statue is at the end of Mother Theresa boulevard (she was born 100 km away in Skopje)
IMG_20160328_102031This is the monument symbolizing the new nation after the war
IMG_20160328_103339We went up the clock tower on Mother Theresa Cathedral (only one euro and it has an elevator) and got good views if the city including
IMG_20160328_104101the national library…wierd and wonderful building
IMG_20160328_110541and surely no visit to Pristina would be complete without visiting the Bill Clinton statue on his boulevard, just off George Bush Boulevard.

A bit of Barbara in Belgrade

IMG_20160326_151201This is the first project I have finished on the road. Sorry, no good place to take pics.IMG_20160326_151138
We are in Belgrade for the day. We got here on an overnight train. Found accomodation, then went for a walk around their citadel. IMG_20160326_111406
It is a great place, fought over a lot in the past..IMG_20160326_111627
Used as a city park nowIMG_20160326_104147
And with great views of the rivers meetingIMG_20160326_111824
Barbara stuff: Little Herringbone,pg. 98, then Fretwork Pattern, pg. 82

A bit of walk round Budapest (well Pest anyway)

We had a plan…go get overnight train tickets to Ljubljana, Slovenia, then walk round killing time till then. Turns out there is no overnight train so we took the subway 9 stops to the bus station to find the next bus is Tuesday.  We returned to the train station and bought overnight tickets to Belgrade instead and went for the walk.IMG_20160325_144115
We thought this was the opera house, but it turns out it was only AN opera house around the corner from the real one.Don Quixote was across the street.IMG_20160325_144400
We found the real one IMG_20160325_145416
The front had lots of adds so i took a picture of the roofline. Then we continuef on to St. Stephen’s Basilica:IMG_20160325_150202
Then the Grand Synagogue:IMG_20160325_153450
Next up..the market…really nice oneIMG_20160325_161302
Coukdn’t get a good picture outside…maybe when I come back. It is right beside the Danube IMG_20160325_161947
Then we walked back past the Parliament buildingsIMG_20160325_172531
And that’s all she wrote.

Budapest health system…sadly I know too much

Our first day in Budapest was spent mostly navigating the health system to get a bleeding ulcer diagnosed for my brother. An ulcer which arguably should have been looked into before we left Canada, but oh well. He had had symptoms for a week which he had been hoping would miracurously disappear. Needless to say, they didn’t and got really fired up by the travelling. I had very little sleep on the metal-mesh benches which were available once the er waiting room cleared a bit around 3am.IMG_20160323_201910
We were in the er for over 12 hours and actually got what we needed, a diagnosis and a prescription, after the gastroenterologist started their shift and was available for a consult. IMG_20160324_065336
The main problen, as I see it after commiserating with locals who spoke English, was the incredibly unhelpful ward clerks who felt no obligation to communicate with anyone except their colleagues. The local Hungarians felt as isolated and frustrated as we did, so it was not a language barrier deal. But then again, I have never been a ward clerk, so maybe there is another excuse.IMG_20160324_080613This is the subway stop near our hotel. It is deep underground, not London tube deep, but deepish. We took a bus, then a subway in from the airport and saw much which seemed to be soviet era housing. The end of the line subway stop has some renovation issues, and many stops on the line are having work done.IMG_20160323_104049
Our hotel has virtually nothing to recommend it except it exists and we found it. IMG_20160323_155430
Okay, it is in a pretty, old building too. Maybe I will do some internet previews going forward. Gotta catch up with the world of today after all.

Why do I travel?

I am going to be out of the country for 6 weeks.  I am not sure how often I will be posting knitting.  I expect to be posting mostly travel posts for a while.valuables Why put up with all the discomfort and frustration?  The knowledge that my IBS may get fired up enough to scare me into thinking it will never calm down again?  The stress of not being able to find a room when you have stumbled into a town where it is Holy Week and they have an important cathedral, or there is a conference in town taking up all the hotel space (luckily they don’t usually compete for the lowest end of the hotel market, but you never know). The fact that everything I have with me for weeks on end has to fit into a suitcase that is (23 cm x 40 cm x 55 cm or 9 in x 15.5 in x 21.5 in) … that is .05 cubic meters or 1.75 cubic feet, including an apnea machine that I really need to sleep. Not to mention the fact that the apnea machine needs electricity, which can be unreliable or even non-existent.first layer main pocket

I do it because every day I see things I wouldn’t get to see at home.  Different foods and cultures and architecture.  Different people and traffic patterns.  Different crops in the fields, sometimes difficult to figure out.  World Heritage sites. Mountains, rivers, oceans. Sunrises and sunsets that don’t have my neighbours’ houses blocking them.top layer, main pocket

I also do it because I am hoping to once again see something that strikes me personally as so beautiful that I get an aching and profound sense of future loss for the present moment.  I know I can’t remain where I am, but I will never be there again.  I can only really remember this happening three times in my life.  Twenty five years ago on a mountainside in Nepal while hiking the Annapurna circuit.  In the Uffizi museum in Florence, Italy while standing in front of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, also 25 years ago now.  And finally on top of one of the pyramids in Tikal, 5 years ago, looking out at the rainforest canopy with other pyramids poking out and a rainstorm coming (someone from the star wars franchise obviously shared this one with me and put it in the movies).  I don’t know when and if it will ever happen again, but I continue to hope for it, and know my only hope is to travel.top pocket of packI have decided to show you all that I take for a 6 week trip.  I started a wish list in a laundry basket on the dining room table.  I rejected the dress, because my brother Charles in unlikely to want to go anywhere that would be appropriate.  IMG_20160322_084711

I don’t stint on socks, underwear and over the counter medications.IMG_20151008_090929

Last day in Lima and home

We arrived back on the bus-from-hell, oops, I mean the bus from Cusco to Lima just before noon on Saturday. We had 11 hours to kill before we were supposed to be at the airport, but we were encumbered by luggage.  We took a taxi to the Museo de la Nacion, again, which should have been open, again, but it was strike two. We took another taxi back to the bus station (only $4 poorer) and got on WiFi to try to find a restaurant.  Phil found one that we probably should have been able to walk to but, unsure of how to get there exactly, we took yet another taxi.  It turned out to be a huge local favourite and was jam packed with people in a huge sprawling restaurant with an upstairs as well as two huge rooms downstairs and live entertainment.   We had another excellent meal.  Those foodies knew a thing or two when they decided to make Peruvian food the next big thing.  In the picture that’s lamb, tacu tacu, fried plantains with quail eggs and some Lima type beans with corn kernels. imageWe walked back to the bus station and Phil negotiated a deal with a taxi driver to go round the city for 8 hours and be driven to the airport for $60. He had a taxi licence so he fobbed us off on his brother around the corner who took us in his own private car.   I wracked my brains to remember the things that were left on the list I made of things to do in Lima, but had subsequently lost.  I knew that the Bridge of Sighs (Puenta des Suspiros) was on it and we wanted to go the the seaside.  It turns out that this was a two birds/one stone situation and we walked down to the ocean from there, where Phil collected sand for a friend.image

I then suddenly remembered that we had been meaning to go to the Huaca Pucllana ruins, near where our hotel had been.  Although I couldn’t for the life of me remember the name, I managed to communicate this to the driver, whose English was unfortunately as limited as my Spanish.  Off we went, arriving not long before the last English tour of the day left.  They don’t let people on the site without a guide.  It was another good choice.

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When we were back in the car, Phil noted that when the taxi driver was not trying to get us to the destination as quickly as possible on his own time, we saw a much nicer city than we had in the few days we had been there at the beginning of the trip.  This driver knew we had lots of time and took us along much prettier streets than we had ever seen before.  The last thing I remembered from the list was the Parque de la Reserva, which has a bunch of water fountains.  I knew that it said to go there at night and we got there just before sunset so we saw it in both the light and dark,IMG_1156It was a great place to walk around because some of the fountains were splash pads and there were lots of kids having a blast.  At this point my memory was tapped out so we asked to be taken to the Plaza das Armes to see it in the dark.  When we got there, the traffic was terrible and there was no place to park so we just took the driver for ice cream and headed for the airport.  This trip has taught me that I am a guidebook person and i will go back to my always having a guidebook with me roots from now on.

Machu Picchu…everyone’s favourite site in South America

There’s a reason this puppy is a world heritage site, although I have to admit I have never been to a world heritage site that I wasn’t impressed by.  You have all seen the pictures beforebut here goes anyway.  We got up at 6 am to catch a lovely viewy train through the mountains.IMG_20151015_085022

When we arrived, we got a bit out of puff climbing to the traditional view point

IMG_20151015_124235

…climbed back down (gently because of my creaky old knees)

IMG_20151015_135125…explored the ruins for a bit and tried desperately to get some shots without too many of the other 2500 people they let in a dayIMG_20151015_135746

…went in and out of  the lovely stepped houses near the finish (they try to keep everyone going in the same direction)IMG_20151015_140400

…and joined the line for the buses back to the train, the end is NOT in sightIMG_20151015_142201We waited only 50 minutes to get to the front of this line (we had predicted an hour ourselves). We had a very expensive and mediocre supper in the tourist trap they call the village of Machu Picchu, and caught the train back to Cusco.  The sun set as we were going through the mountains and it was lovely to see them in the changing light.  My cell phone camera was not up to catching it.  Machu Picchu was definitely worth all the money and hassle it had been to get there.

Sacred Valley Near Cusco, Peru

I went on an all day bus tour of the sacred valley around Cusco.  Phil was of course supposed to come but she had wicked altitude sickness. She only got up once that day to go get pills apparently.  We had already booked the tour so she said I should go anyway .

There was chaos at the start as the scores of your operators from around the city brought their customers and tried to install them on the buses.  I was put on one bus then taken off it because it was a Spanish only tour, only to be put on another Spanish only bus.  IMG_20151014_130203It turns out that the last English bus had left in the meantime so I was promised that I could switch at the first site Pisaq.  Before we got there, however we had to stop at the first of three souvenir stops. IMG_20151014_111009

Pisaq had 4000 inhabitants in Inca times, 2000 of them farmers on the terraces.  The terraces had stone walls in front and were backfilled with gravel and topsoil. I was introduced to the English speaking guide and promised that I would be switched after the next site.  We then went for a buffet lunch.IMG_20151014_140002

We carried on to the next site, Ollentaytambo.  It was quite a zoo of tourists. None of my pics were all that great.IMG_20151014_155153

After this place they finally offered to let me switch buses, but I was understanding a lot of what he said and that were a very jovial group so I stayed with them.

The final stop was at a textile place where they did a demo about dyes and had another nice display of dyestuffs.IMG_20151014_175552

I got back to the hotel 12 hours after leaving and Phil’s meds were kicking in enough to go out for ice cream.

Cusco culinary school

We went to the Cusco culinary cooking class and made our own dinner. I would happily recommend this to anyone who has any culinary interest.  We started with Pisco Sour cocktails.  Apparently a bartender didn’t have any whisky for a whisky sour and subbed a local super strong wine.  We had one made with traditional ice cubes and two done with frozen juice cubes.IMG_20151013_172001

Next came the appetizer, Causa which is chopped chicken salad and sliced avocado sandwiched between two layers of mashed potatoes built in a mold. IMG_20151013_175544

  1. Unfortunately, Phil developed altitude sickness and she didn’t make it through the whole thing. She went and lay down after making the appetizer.  We made the main course which was quinoa risotto and lomo saltados (beef stir fry).  We flambéed the beef cubesIMG_20151013_183257

Then added tomatoes, red peppers, onions and cilantro.  It was delicious.IMG_20151013_184307

We finished off with a fruit mousse.IMG_20151013_190116

Great meal and fun making it ourselves.